Mosquito’s paradise

March 24, 2018

We arrived on a beautiful inhabited island, that seemed like paradise at first. Until the sun was gone and mosquitos started to attack us. We tried to cover up with clothes as much as possible, sprayed deet (insect repellent) all over us and yet we had to run away to a dry part of the island at low tide to finish our dinner.  After fleeing in our tents and hammock we could finally sleep in peace and quiet. The trip for the next day looked promising, as I was checking out the maps and google earth. We would row across an enormous patch of reef in the middle of the sea, with a small island in the middle. We rowed for hours over this beautiful place. That day we tried to reach Pulau Sermata, because that was not too far and would allow us to have an easy day before the big crossing to Pulau Babar.

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We slept on a deserted beach this time, because most of the time people here are so curious that they disturb our sleep to be able talk to us. I love it here and everyone is very helpful and generous, but on the other hand we sometimes are tired and need rest. The lack of sleep is starting to be very difficult here. Many nights people just flash their lights in the tent or hammock to see who’s there, play loud music or other things that keep us awake. This time we need to be well-rested for the big crossings that are coming our way. 

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That night we leave at 4 am to get the crossing done to Pulau Wetan (about 70km). Because our course course is NE, we ended up with a sideways swell and wind. It became a very hard day and I had to vomit a couple of times in the end. When we arrived at Wetan I was completely dead, no more energy, but I still had to get trough the jungle to find some people to help us pull the boat on the beach. After that, I felt really dizzy and realized I had been too exhausted. After the necessary talks with the head of the village and such we could finally rest, drink and eat, again with 20 people watching everything we do. It gives a hard mental stress here to have constantly people watching you. They all gather around, leaving no space to get fresh air so you’re sweating a lot. Each time we arrive in a village, it takes a while before we are able to cook food because of all the formalities. I sure understand why the people are gathering around: some of them never seen a ‘white person’ in their life, but on days like this after total exhaustion, I just want to eat, drink and sleep. 

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The next day was an ‘easy day’ of 20km, the sea got rougher and I was in a very bad mood. I just couldn’t push myself anymore and just wanted to quit. The whole day I was looking forward to getting to Babar and find a place to sleep and take a rest day. Koen – still in good energy – understood that 3 months of this expedition are taking it’s toll on me. 

Without people coming along I wouldn’t be able to do this, it takes such an amount of energy both physically and mentally that I’m very happy people are joining me on the way. They always bring new energy in the expedition, which helps a lot. On the other hand, this new energy is tiring because those people are in the best shape when they arrive, while I’m getting more and more exhausted. But I have to keep on going in the same rythm (and in the mean time I speak some indonesian so I am  the one who has to do the talking in the villages).

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In Babar we have an obligatory extra restday because of bad weather, I’m not sorry for that and try to rest and eat as much as possible in the homestay where the only food option is white rice with a piece of chicken, nasi goreng or fried noodles. I’m getting sick of the lack of food too, maybe I’m spoiled but some variation or extra calories would do me good, especially as I’m burning at least 7000kcal a day here. Luckily Nina, koen’s girlfriend, had spent hours on making some dehydrated food which was an extremely good variation, thank you so much!

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From the east of Babar we plan the next big crossing, a 90 km from Pulau Daweloor to Jamdena. This would be the biggest one so far and I’m a bit nervous about it. First we need to make a 30km crossing to Daweloor early morning, there we take some rest during the day. Daweloor is a really beautiful island with many cliffs and extreme landscapes. After rest, food and making pancakes we try to sleep a bit. But the rain that night gave me no other chance than to cover at Koen’s tent where it got too hot to lay down comfortable with 2 people.

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After a hard night we get up at 23h to start our 90km at 00.00h. The first part goes well and we make a speedy progress. From about 3 am we’re getting difficulties keeping our eyes open, the lack of sleep is taking its toll and I’m starting to have dreams while rowing. Doing the same motion over and over again. By the time the sun comes up we’re more than halfway and the weather is still as good as predicted. Only then I need to vomit again and feeling sick. This prevents me further to eat and drink enough.

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***No picture of this, I was too busy keeping my head out of the boat***

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Despite that we still keep going strong and about 15hrs later we arrive at our destination. I had no energy left and felt miserable. The only things that got me through were the supportive messages my girlfriend wrote me every hour on my satellite tracker, just to keep my focus. There we eat and go to sleep, the next day we have another 30km to cover the distance to Sera, Koen leaves back to Belgium and Mark, an adventuer who’s preparing to cross the atlantic ocean by rowboat, is joining for a week. 

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We don’t have much time since Mark needs to catch a plane to Sorong after a week. The plan was to row to the Kei Islands and do the biggest crossing of the expedition. Too bad the weather and some delays made it differently. We made it to the end of the island where we left the boat with some extremely helpfull people.

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From there I fly to Bali to see my girlfriend. At first, the first plan was to row together, but I have to extend my visa and I really need a break for a while. So that timing is good now. I hope to find the mental strength again to continue this expedition..

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